You turned the key to off and the engine kept running. Or the dash stayed lit and the radio kept playing. Or the key simply stopped before it reached off and will not go further. All three feel like the same problem, and they are not. Call or text 817-842-1256 if you need someone at the car today — but first, the safe way to get it shut down.
The Short Answer
As of September 2026, a car that will not turn off with the key is usually one of four faults: a failing ignition switch, a worn lock cylinder that stops the key short of off, a stuck relay that keeps power on, or a shifter park switch that does not report Park. The switch and cylinder are mobile locksmith repairs at $150 to $400 in Fort Worth. Relays, shifter switches and remote-start modules are mechanic or dealer work, and we will say so up front.
First: How to Shut It Down Safely
If the engine is still running and will not stop with the key, deal with that before anything else.
- Shift to Park and set the parking brake. On a manual, leave it in gear with the brake held.
- Stay with the vehicle. A running car must not be left unattended, and it must never run inside a closed garage — carbon monoxide builds quickly. The NHTSA and the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention both warn about running vehicles in enclosed spaces.
- Pull the fuel pump fuse or relay. On most vehicles this sits in the underhood fuse box, and removing it stops the engine within a few seconds as the fuel supply drops. Your owner manual's fuse diagram shows where it is.
- On a manual transmission, stalling the engine in gear with the service brake firmly applied also stops it.
- Do not start pulling random wires. If none of the above works, call for help.
Once the engine is off, if the dash and accessories are still powered, disconnecting the negative battery terminal will stop the battery draining while you arrange a repair — though you may need radio codes or relearns afterward.
Which of the Four Faults Do You Have?
| What you see | Most likely cause | Who fixes it | Typical Fort Worth cost |
|---|---|---|---|
| Key turns fully to off, engine keeps running | Ignition switch electrical contacts or a stuck ignition relay | Locksmith for the switch; mechanic for a relay | $150 to $400 for switch replacement |
| Key stops short of off and will not turn further | Worn lock cylinder or worn key | Locksmith | $150 to $400 for cylinder repair |
| Key turns to off, dash and radio stay on | Ignition switch contacts or accessory relay | Locksmith or mechanic | $150 to $400 when it is the switch |
| Push-button car stays in accessory, "shift to Park" message | Shifter park position switch | Mechanic or dealer | quoted by the shop |
| Problem started after a remote starter was installed | Aftermarket remote-start module | Installer or auto electrician | quoted by the shop |
| Key will not come out of the ignition at all | Cylinder, shifter interlock or key wear | Locksmith | $150 to $400 when it is the cylinder |
The ignition bands match our full automotive locksmith price list and our detailed ignition switch repair versus replacement cost guide.
Fault 1: The Ignition Switch Is Failing
On most turn-key vehicles there are two parts people call "the ignition." The lock cylinder is the mechanical part the key goes into. Behind it, the ignition switch is an electrical component that the cylinder turns, routing power to the ignition, accessory and starter circuits as it moves through its positions.
When the switch's internal contacts wear, arc or weld together, turning the key to off no longer breaks the circuit. The engine keeps running, or the accessories stay live, even though the key and cylinder are sitting correctly in the off position. This is the classic version of the problem, and it tends to announce itself in advance: flickering dash lights while driving over bumps, accessories cutting in and out, or the occasional stall.
That last symptom matters. A switch that can stay on when it should be off can also turn off when it should be on. Ignition switch defects have driven some of the largest safety recalls on record — the NHTSA recall database includes ignition-switch campaigns that covered millions of vehicles — so check your VIN there before paying for anything. If a recall applies, the dealer repair is free.
If you are not sure whether the switch or the cylinder is at fault, our guide to ignition switch versus ignition cylinder walks through the difference symptom by symptom.
Fault 2: The Key Will Not Reach Off
This version is mechanical. You turn the key back and it stops somewhere between run and off, or between accessory and off, and will not go further. The engine may still be running because the key never got to off at all.
The usual causes:
- Worn wafers inside the lock cylinder. Years of use wear the tumblers until they bind at certain positions.
- A worn key. A key whose cuts have rounded off no longer lifts the wafers cleanly. If a spare key turns smoothly where your daily key sticks, the key is the problem, and a new key cut to your key code — not copied from the worn one — fixes it.
- The shifter is not fully in Park. Most automatics use an interlock that stops the key reaching off unless the transmission is in Park. Press the shifter firmly forward into Park and try again.
- Steering lock pressure. If the car was parked with the wheels turned, the steering lock can bind the cylinder. Gently turning the wheel while turning the key usually frees it.
If the key reaches off but then will not come out, that is a close cousin of this fault, covered in key stuck in the ignition. And if the key turns freely without doing anything at all, see key turns but nothing happens.
Cylinder repair is squarely locksmith work, completed at the car. On many vehicles we can repair or rekey the existing cylinder so your current key still works; on others the cylinder is replaced and keyed to match. Our ignition repair page covers the visit, and steering column lock repair covers vehicles where the column lock itself is involved.
Fault 3: A Stuck Relay
On many vehicles the ignition switch does not carry the full ignition and accessory load directly. It energizes relays that do the heavy lifting. If one of those relays sticks closed, the circuit stays live after the switch opens — same symptom as a failing switch, different part.
The tell is that the key and switch behave normally and the problem persists anyway. A relay is typically a plug-in part in the fuse box and a simple swap once identified, which makes it a job for a mechanic or a confident owner with the wiring diagram, not a locksmith. We will not sell you an ignition switch for a relay fault; if the symptoms point that way, we will say so.
Fault 4: The Car Does Not Know It Is in Park
This is the push-button version of the problem, and it is common. You press the stop button, the engine stops, but the car stays in accessory mode and shows a message such as "shift to Park," even though the lever is in Park. Because the car will not power down fully, the battery drains overnight.
The cause is usually a park position switch inside the shifter assembly that fails to report Park to the body control system. It is a well-documented fault on several late-2010s models from more than one manufacturer, and some are covered by service campaigns. It is a shifter repair, not an ignition or key repair, and a dealer or mechanic is the right call. Check the NHTSA recall lookup and ask the dealer about service bulletins before paying.
For other push-button symptoms — no start, key not detected, intermittent power — our push-button start problems page is the better starting point.
Remote Starters and Aftermarket Alarms
If the problem began after a remote starter or alarm was installed, suspect the module first. Remote starters work by powering the ignition circuit themselves, and a faulty module or a poor installation can hold that circuit on after you turn the key off. The fix belongs to the installer or an auto electrician. Our remote start key fob programming article explains how these systems tie into the vehicle.
What It Costs to Fix
As of September 2026, for the faults we handle:
- Ignition switch replacement: $150 to $400, depending on how much of the steering column has to be opened and whether the switch is separate from the cylinder on your vehicle.
- Lock cylinder repair or replacement: $150 to $400, including keying the cylinder so your existing key works where possible.
- A new key cut to code when the worn key is the cause: $120 to $200 for a transponder key with a working key present.
For relays, shifter park switches and remote-start modules, the price comes from the mechanic, dealer or installer. For the broader cost picture across locksmith services, see how much is a locksmith for a car.
Why It Should Not Wait
A car that will not turn off is inconvenient in the obvious way — dead batteries, a car that cannot be left — but the switch fault in particular deserves prompt attention. The same worn contacts that keep power on can also cut power while you drive. The Insurance Institute for Highway Safety and NHTSA both track how electrical faults in ignition systems have translated into crash risk, which is exactly why regulators pushed those recalls so hard.
If your vehicle has had any history of stalling, flickering dash lights or accessories dropping out, mention it when you call. It changes how urgently the job should be scheduled.
"The first question we ask on these calls is whether the key actually reaches off. If it does and the car keeps running, we are looking at the switch. If it does not, we are looking at the cylinder or the key. That one answer decides whether it is our job at all." — an ALOA-credentialed Master Automotive Locksmith working the DFW metro
What to Tell Us When You Call
- Year, make and model, and whether it is a turn-key or push-button car.
- Whether the key reaches off, stops short, or will not come out.
- Whether the engine keeps running or only the accessories stay on.
- Any recent work: battery replacement, remote starter, steering column repair.
- Any history of stalling or flickering dash lights.
With that, we can usually tell on the phone whether it is ignition work, and quote it. Our work is carried out by locksmiths licensed through the Texas Department of Public Safety Private Security Program, and good consumer practice from ALOA and the Federal Trade Commission applies here as everywhere: the quote you hear on the phone should be the price you pay at the car. If you are in the mid-cities, the same service covers Arlington and North Richland Hills, and GM owners with a Buick of this era will find the platform-specific version in Buick LaCrosse, Regal and Enclave ignition repair.
Frequently Asked Questions
Why will my car not turn off when I turn the key?
The four common causes are an ignition switch whose electrical contacts are failing, a worn lock cylinder that stops the key short of the off position, a stuck ignition or accessory relay that keeps power on after the switch opens, and on many automatics a shifter park switch that does not report Park, so the car refuses to power down fully. An aftermarket remote-start module can also hold the ignition on. Which one you have decides whether the fix is ignition work or a mechanic.
How do I shut off a car that keeps running with the key off?
Put the vehicle in Park with the parking brake set and stay with it. On most vehicles, removing the fuel pump fuse or relay in the underhood fuse box stops the engine within a few seconds, and your owner manual shows its location. On a manual transmission, stalling it in gear with the brakes held also works. Do not leave a running car unattended, never run it in a closed garage, and call for help rather than guessing at wiring.
How much does it cost to fix a car that will not turn off?
As of September 2026, if the ignition switch or lock cylinder is the cause, our mobile ignition repair runs $150 to $400 depending on the vehicle and whether the steering column has to come apart. If the fault is a relay, a shifter park switch or a remote-start module, that is mechanic or dealer work rather than locksmith work, and we will tell you so on the phone rather than send someone out for the wrong job.
My key will not turn back to the off position. Is that the ignition switch?
Usually it is the lock cylinder or the key rather than the electrical switch. A worn key or worn wafers inside the cylinder can bind before the off detent, and a shifter that is not fully in Park will block the key on many automatics by design. Try pressing the shifter firmly into Park and gently wiggling the steering wheel while turning. If the key still stops short, the cylinder needs attention.
My push-button car says to shift to Park, but it is in Park. What is wrong?
That message usually means the park position switch in the shifter assembly is not reporting Park to the body control system, so the car stays in accessory mode instead of shutting down fully and can drain the battery. It is a well-documented fault on several late-2010s models. It is a shifter repair, not an ignition or key repair, so a mechanic or dealer is the right call; a manufacturer bulletin or recall may cover it.
Is it safe to keep driving a car that will not turn off?
Treat it as a problem to fix promptly, not to live with. A car that stays powered after you leave it will drain its battery, and a switch with failing contacts can also fail in other ways, including intermittent stalling or no-start. Check the NHTSA recall lookup for your VIN first, because ignition-switch recalls have covered millions of vehicles and a recall repair is free.
Can you fix this at my location in Fort Worth?
Yes, when the cause is the ignition switch, the lock cylinder or the key. Those are mobile jobs we complete in the driveway or the parking lot, typically in 45 to 120 minutes. Call or text 817-842-1256 with your year, make and model and exactly what the car is doing, and we will tell you whether it sounds like our work or a mechanic job before anyone drives out.
References
- NHTSA — Vehicle Safety Recalls
- NHTSA
- Centers for Disease Control and Prevention
- Insurance Institute for Highway Safety
- ALOA — Associated Locksmiths of America
- FTC — Advertising and Marketing Guidance
- SAE International
Car will not shut off? Get it safely stopped first, then call or text 817-842-1256 with your year, make, model and what the key is doing. We repair ignition switches and lock cylinders on site across Fort Worth, Mon-Sun 8AM to 8PM.
Reviewed against the ALOA Master Automotive Locksmith (MAL) standard. Prices are Fort Worth mobile service ranges current as of September 2026 and are confirmed per vehicle before dispatch.



